Home Made $260 claret cutter

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January 27th, 2012

Simple & powerful plasma cutter that you can build at home for under $300! It cuts up to 1/2 inch steel. This is what I made to cut sheets of 316 stainless for building hho cells. It makes cutting stainless like cutting butter. I found that 4×8 foot sheets of 316 cost only $150 so I needed a way to slice them up. Please be aware that there is an error in the schematic at the end which will keep it from working correctly. This video was made in a hurry. I will post some move videos with all the correct info if anyone cares. Engineers told me it was to hard to do and it would take them a year to design a plasma cutter. However, if plasma cutting was invented by accident during world war two then I knew I could do it on purpose. A home made torch head is super cheap, however I choose a replacement torch head because they have better air nozzle control and make a smoother cut; $125 of the price was spent on the “replacement” torch head. I have sold plans in the past, but really this is just to good of a tool to not let everyone know how to build one. So this is my gift to the DIY community.. Please note that in this schematic the inductor and water resistor needs swaping, otherwise it will not work!. The resistor can not be in the torch wire it must be in the work clamp wire.

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Infrared Heater – Save on Your Energy Bill

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January 26th, 2012

Do you need an additional heater, to complement your central heating system? Sometimes it just doesn’t make sense to turn up the temperature in the entire house so you can warm up one room you are in. It is much better to use an additional heater. Infrared heater can be of great help. Find out what are the benefits of infrared heaters comparable to other heaters.

Infrared heater efficiency

Most heaters work by warming the air in the room. People in the room are warmed by the air. Not only this wastes energy on warming up the air, but also you don’t feel the benefits of the heater as soon as it is switched on. It might take several minutes for a room to warm up. Infrared heaters work differently. They don’t heat up the air it heats objects that are directly in its path. As a result people in the area are warmed directly by the heater and not by the air.

This principle makes infrared heaters very energy efficient. Another advantage is that you don’t have to turn the heater on half an hour or hour in advance to pre-heat the room. You feel the warmth immediately.

Types of infrared heaters

Here are the most popular types of infrared heaters:

- Metal-sheathed tubular heaters

- Quartz tubes

- Quartz lamps

- Gas fired catalytic

- Flat-faced panels

- Ceramic emitters

Often people are worried that infrared heaters are not safe. There is really no need to worry. Most modern infrared heaters have a protective sheath to cover the heating elements. The cover is usually made of metal such as aluminum, brass, copper, iron or stainless steel. Blowing curtains won’t become a fire hazard with an infrared heater. Most home models are pretty safe, but of course children shouldn’t be allowed to play with the heating unit.

Another advantage is that infrared heater doesn’t make the air in the room dry. The principle of its work is very similar to the way sun warms us on a bright day.

You can find indoor infrared heaters as well as outdoor and patio heaters. The source of fuel can be different, infrared heater can run off electricity, natural gas or propane.

More tips for efficient heating

Using an additional infrared heater can save you a great deal on your energy bill. But there is more you can do. First, check for drafts and boost the insulation. At the beginning of winter, make sure that window caulking and storm windows are in good shape. You should also check thermostats and install timers for your central heating.

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Welding Certification Tests For Boilermakers

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January 22nd, 2012

A very common welding certification test for boilermakers is a 2 inch schedule 120 tube welded in a 6G position using Tig for the root and second pass, and stick welding for the filler passes and cover passes.

Sound Simple? If you think it’s simple, you are wrong.

A 2″ pipe done in a 6G position means that the pipe is placed with the axis of the pipe running 45 degrees from parallel. Once the test begins, it cannot be rolled, raised, or lowered.

That means you have to be able to position yourself in a way that allows you to move as you weld to move from the bottom, up the side, and to the top. That sometimes means starting out in the kneeling position, moving to a halfway standing bent over position, and then standing. All while trying to maintain a consistent arc length while moving at a steady even speed. This is the kind of welding that separates the men from the boys.

Whoever selected the 6g position for welding certification tests was either totally incompetent or an evil genius.

6G welding certification tests for boilermakers are used because they test the welders skill and because a 6g weld test qualifies for all other positions.

Its impractical to test a welder in the field doing the exact job that will be done once the welder is certified.

The 6G test is often considered the best way to cull the not so great welders and hire the best ones.

(although a 2G along with a 5G might be better)

Another reason 2 inch pipe is used for a weld test is that boiler tubes are often the same diameter as the test and they are also often welded while installed and next to other boiler tubes. Welding a 2 inch tube is hard enough with nothing in your way. Put another boiler tube just inches away on each side and the weld is much harder to do.

Testing using a 6G test gives some indication that a welder can weld from both sides of a joint.

I took a 6g test once and then welded a whole bunch of 2g and 5g tube joints in a fab shop. Never did a 6G for the whole year I worked there. So in my case, a 2g and a 5g test would have been more representative of the work done.

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Spyderco Dragonfly: “Airweight Utility” by Nutnfancy

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January 16th, 2012

Definitely a good choice for your smaller every day carry (EDC) duties, the Spyderco Dragonfly is a svelte design. SUPER light at just 1.2 ounces, the Dragon is a forget-you-have-it-on knife. That’s because Spyderco wisely dispensed with any attempt to add stainless steel liners to the Dragonfly (thank you!). This knife compares favorably against another favorite EDC, the excellent SOG Flash 1 assisted opener. The 2″ VG10 (or AUS8) leaf shaped blade is flat ground and will provide superb cutting performance. Be advised that the Dragonfly is a small knife and may be too small for many cutting tasks… for package, letter opening and the like it excels. It arrives to you razor sharp as all new knives should. The blade deploys quickly, locks up adequately tight, the Zytel handle is comfortable, and the integral clip holds adequately over thick cloth. Improvements could include jimping on the thumb ramp and choil area, faster deployment (will speed with time I think), and a small metal clip (that would hold tighter), and cheaper price (it’s overpriced for what it is). But in many ways the Dragonfly is an excellent, easy-to-carry small EDC blade. Likability scale: 7 out of 10 (if jimped, less expensive, with tighter clip: 8.5 out of 10)

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How To Make Wine At Home

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January 9th, 2012

Stainless Steel Tube

Making wine at home is not difficult, and it is a very rewarding hobby. In this article, we will go through the equipment needed and all the steps you take to make wine from fruit – grapes, apples, plums, pears, peaches, or whatever fruit you have.

You can also make wine at home from a kit, usually using grape concentrate, but the results are very variable, and it is much more satisfying to make wine from fresh fruit.

You probably thought of home wine making because you have your own fruit, or have been given some, or because fruit is in season in your area and you can get it very cheaply. Making wine is a great way of using fruit when you cannot possibly eat it all, or make all of it into jam, or freeze it all.

I have made wine successfully from many kinds of fruit, including grapes, apples, apricots, plums (many varieties), quinces, pears and peaches. Make sure you discard all rotten or suspect fruit right at the start.

Assuming you have your fruit ready, here are the equipment and supplies you need.

A large food grade plastic tub or stainless steel pot to squeeze or press juice into. Needs to have a lid. An electric juicer (not essential if you can squeeze or press the fruit by hand). A glass fermentation vessel like a jug, carboy or demijohn (also called a ‘jimmyjohn’) with an airlock. These are available at brewing shops. It is usually better to use several smaller vessels (of one gallon capacity) than one large one. A plastic tube for siphoning. Yeast (available in packets at brewing shops and some supermarkets). Sugar.Sterilizing solution or tablets. (Not essential – you can clean equipment with boiling water.)

With this all collected, follow these steps to make your wine.

Get your juice

People starting out with home fruit wine making often wonder how much fruit they actually need. Here is a tip I have found works – you need enough juice to fill the glass fermentation vessel you are using – your carboy or demijohn. Some recipes advocate watering your fruit juice to make up the quantity you need, but never do this. Use pure juice and your wine will be full-flavored and satisfying to drink.

You will either press the fruit, squeeze it by hand or use an electric juicer. If squeezing by hand (soft plums for example) you will need a large stainless steel or plastic container. If you have hard fruit like apples or hard plums, and electric juicer is a good investment if you don’t own one already. You can also cut up the fruit and boil it in a little water to extract the juice, but this degrades the flavor of the final wine. If you have grapes, you can try trampling them with your feet in the traditional manner. Some fruits can be cut up and left to soak for a few days in a little water to extract the flavor and color from the skin.

Some fruit, like apples, throw a tremendous froth after juicing and you will have to siphon the juice out after the froth has risen to the top.

Note that mixed fruit wines are very successful. If you have only a few apricots but a lot of apples, mix the juice to make up your gallon.

Add the sugar

Some fruit juice, like very sweet grape juice, will not need the addition of any sugar. Most other fruit wines will need sugar to be added. I normally add 2 pound of sugar to make up one gallon of fruit juice. If you prefer a drier wine, you can reduce this amount. This is the reason it is better to use several smaller glass vessels when starting with home fruit wine making – you can vary the amount of sugar in each (record this by writing on the carboy with a felt pen); when you eventually come to drink the wines, you will know which style between dry, medium and sweet that you prefer. More sugar also means more food for the yeast, and so more alcoholic wine at the end of the process.

Add the sugar by warming the fruit juice slightly in a stainless steel pan, and stirring in the sugar to dissolve it.

Add the yeast

Sterilize your carboy or demijohn with sterilizing solution, or boiling water. Put the sugared fruit juice into your vessel. Dissolve the powdered yeast in a little warm water and sugar in a cup, and leave it for a few minutes to activate. Then add the yeast to the fruit juice. Put your air lock on the vessel.

Fermentation of the fruit juice should begin soon, and you will see bubbles in the air lock. This means the yeast is converting the sugar to alcohol.

Watch and wait

Put your fermentation vessel in a warm place if possible. Ideally you should leave the wine fermenting for nine months to a year. If you drink it after only a month or two it will taste rough and poor; leaving it for about a year will let it mellow out – this really makes a difference. As fermentation goes on, you will notice a white layer appear at the bottom of the fermentation vessel. This is formed by dead yeast cells. You can ‘rack’, or siphon the wine into a new vessel, which stops the wine becoming tainted with a yeasty aftertaste. You should do this once a month.

Bottle your wine

If the wine has not clarified, and you want it to be fully clear before bottling, leave the vessel in a very cold place for a week or so, and the clarity should improve.

When the fermentation has stopped (no bubbles coming through the air lock) you can bottle the wine and cork the bottle. Remember to sterilize the bottles and corks before you use them. If you will be making a lot of wine, remember to label all the bottles with details of the fruit, the yeast variety used and date of bottling. If you make a superb batch, you can then try to replicate it in following years.

Drink up!

Few people can resist drinking a bottle at this stage. But most fruit wines are at their best up to two years after bottling, so you can put a few bottles aside until you have some friends round, or have something to celebrate. There’s nothing quite like drinking your own wine, made the way you like it!

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